Bra Fit Guide

If you live in or are visiting Tucson, click here to schedule a personalized bra fitting appointment with a fit expert at The Bra Spa.  If you can’t come see us right now, read some of the tips below.


Sometimes it’s immediately obvious that a bra you’re trying on doesn’t fit right. But sometimes there are less obvious signs that the bra you have on is doing little to optimize your shape. Even if a bra may “feel right,” it may not be giving you proper support or enhancing your assets. Or, it’s the wrong style bra for you altogether.

The Bra Fit Guide below will offer some tips. A perfect fitting bra will pass all these checks. So, take a few minutes to understand what a perfect fitting bra should be like. Then, you’ll be able to easily assess whether you’re wearing the wrong size or wrong style bra.

Smooth Fitting Cups

If you don’t fill out your bra cups – wrinkling, or gapping – you need a smaller cup size.  Some women complain the cups look “pointy” (when the bra design is not meant to look this way). This too can be another sign that you are not fully filling out your cups and need to go down a cup size.  If your cup is only 1/2 full, it’s time for a new bra.  If you’re “overflowing” in your cups, or the top of your bra cups are cutting into your breast tissue, try a larger cup size or a style with a fuller cup design.  “Quad-boob” is a no-no!  The edges of the cups should lie flat against your breast.

Center panel lays flat against your breastbone.

If your bra’s center panel (gore) is not resting on your sternum, this could be a sign that your cup size is too small. If the underwires are pointing outward and away from your body, this too is a sign that your cup size could be too small. Also, how far apart your breasts are from each other can affect how your center panel rests on your sternum.

Please Note: Minimizers and soft cup bras tend to not rest against the breastbone, and this is fine.

Bra band is parallel to the floor or slightly lower in the back.

The lower edge of your bra band should anchor below the shoulder blades. The lower the back fits, the better the support.

Straps stay put and don’t dig into your shoulders.

Only 10% of your bra’s support should come from your bra straps. If your straps are working harder than this, you probably need a smaller band size. Women with sloping shoulders need to look for specific bra styles and features to keep their straps up and on their shoulders.

Cup fabric is stable.

The cup fabric should give support as well as a good breast shape. Bras with cups made from stretchy fabric will be comfortable, but your shape and support will be compromised.

Underwires encircle your breasts.

Underwires shouldn’t poke, protrude or pinch. If your wires bend away from your chest in the center, this usually means your cup size is too small. However, your unique breast placement, shape and size can also impact how bra underwires will fit you.

Good breast uplift.

The apex of your breasts should be mid-way between your shoulders and your elbows. Uplifted breasts look more youthful and give a slimming appearance.

Breasts point forward; do not sag or fall to your sides.

They are called headlights for a reason.  The correct bra style for you will have your breasts pointing forward so that you may freely swing your arms forward and backward without obstruction.

A finger can be run under your front band.

Your bra should be snug, but not too tight. If you find it difficult to get your finger between you and your bra band in front, you need a larger band size or a looser hook position in back.

Feels comfortable when seated.

Our ribcages tend to expand when we are seated. If you’re not sure your band is big enough, sit down while wearing your bra. This quick test will answer your concern. There are bras on the market with an arch design at the center front to accommodate a tummy moving upwards when you sit down. If sitting makes your bra uncomfortable, consider one of these bras with arched center panels.

A final and very important point. When zeroing in on your correct bra size, it’s better to first find your best band size, then adjust your cup size till you find the one that fits best.  Changing your cup size is more of a fine-tuning change. So, get your band size first, and then adjust your cup size to further refine towards your perfect bra size.